Boost Your Collagen - What Works and Doesn't

You have probably heard that collagen is important for healthy skin but what exactly is it, how does it work, and how do you boost it? Let’s review...

Collagen is a naturally occurring protein in the body that supports a number of things, including providing structure to our skin. As we age we naturally lose collagen and our bodies produce less. Collagen loss begins in our 20s and we lose on average 1% per year. This can lead to sagging skin and wrinkles.  

There are a number of things that have evidence showing they help to stimulate collagen, including the use of topical retinoids, certain in-office treatments that either “wound” or heat the skin to trigger a healing response that produces collagen, and the use of certain substances (biostimulators) injected into the skin. Sun protection is also important to preserve existing collagen. ️

What about oral collagen supplements? Collagen is formed naturally in our bodies by breaking down dietary proteins into amino acids, which build chains that in turn create collagen. So  ingested collagen will be broken down as any other protein would and must then be “re-assembled”. However, even if new collagen is produced, there are many types of collagen in our bodies and there is not a clear pathway for ingestible collagen to translate specifically into collagen in our skin. More research is definitely needed! 

Collagen applied topically in creams is also not going to penetrate the skin and act as new collagen under the surface. If you are looking for topical options, retinoids have the most evidence. Other topicals that may help are antioxidants like Vitamin C, growth factors and peptides.

Probably the most direct way to stimulate collagen production in the skin would be in-office treatments including microneedling, laser and light based treatments such as IPL, radiofrequency and ultrasound based technologies, and injectable biostimulators including Sculptra and Radiesse. ⚡️

So if you are looking for ways to increase (and preserve) your collagen, know that there are options available. I would recommend talking to an aesthetic specialist to learn more about what may be right for you.

Review of Facial Aging and Common Treatments

In this post I want to address a problem that we all must face (yes pun intended): Facial aging. Two of the primary culprits responsible for aging of the face are fat loss and bone loss, which start to become increasingly visible as early as your 30s! Over time, volume loss, sagging of the skin, and formation of deep lines and wrinkles begins to occur.  This is why early prevention is key.

The images below show how internal fat loss and gravitational changes present over time. You can see the fat and bone structure at age 35 vs 55.  

Fat pads are what give our face volume. With age these fat pads start to shrink in size and move down the face. The first signs of this tend to occur in the malar fat pad or cheek (pictured). This causes separation at the lid-cheek junction, which results in the appearance of a tear trough or under eye hollow. At the same time, bone resorption causes structural changes to our face. Loss of bony support, along with volume loss from fat pads can cause the skin to sag, as it has lost the underlying support structures. Skin elasticity also degrades as we age. Aging occurs in a downward and medial direction, which is why you can see heaviness in the nasolabial fold and jowls.

That may sound like a lot of bad news, so what can we do? … 

A comprehensive treatment plan (and the earlier the better) may be able to slow the sands of time using non-invasive treatments. Neuromodulator injections (e.g. Botox) can soften dynamic lines, fillers can replace lost volume and skin treatments such as Thermage and Ultherapy can help stimulate collagen synthesis and tighten the skin.

If you are interested in learning more about what treatments may be right for you please contact my office to book a consultation.

Skin Care at Every Age

Healthy skin habits start at a young age, as my son Jacob has shared in his videos. As every dermatologist will tell you, the most important thing for all ages is to protect your skin from sun damage! Beyond that there are obviously different concerns that tend to arise at different points in our life and while everyone’s skin is unique I wanted to share some general tips for skin health as you age.

For those of you in your 20s if you haven’t already established a skin care routine now is the time. Prevention is key at this age. A gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen are the key elements. You may also want to consider an exfoliating product to help turn over the skin cells. Many people in their 20s may still be dealing with acne as well so if you are having flare-ups and don’t have a treatment that works well for you, be sure to talk to a dermatologist. While most people at this age haven’t started to develop wrinkles, I do see some younger patients for “preventative botox” as there is evidence that use of neuromodulators can actually prevent the formation of wrinkles down the road.

In your 30s is when you will likely start to notice more changes to your skin. For the most part, the routine you established in your 20s is still relevant (especially the sunscreen part - seriously, wear it every day!) Loss of collagen is a big one and this is the perfect time to introduce retinoids to your skincare routine. Hyaluronic acid is another ingredient that I recommend to help hydrate the skin and soften the appearance of fine lines. In terms of in-office treatments, depending on the condition of your skin you may consider starting laser or light-based treatments to help even out the skin tone and stimulate collagen.

For most people the 40s is when you start to see more signs of aging. Women in this age group may experience the onset of peri-menopause and the increased hormonal activity can wreak havoc on your skin. Adult acne may even be a problem and I often encourage the use of a retinoid for both anti-aging and acne concerns.  It’s a great time to incorporate an antioxidant like topical vitamin C into your routine as well.  

50s and beyond - yes I know there are a lot of years beyond the 50’s and everyone’s skin is unique at every age but especially as we age our needs differ. Unfortunately I’m running out of space for this post, but in brief, with age the skin dries out so hydration and a good emollient is key. In addition to the above, incorporating a growth factor could also be considered!  At this age and beyond one of the biggest problems is volume loss. Hyaluronic acid based fillers like Juvederm or Restylane can be helpful to lift the tissue, soften the folds and minimize the appearance of the jowls and sagging skin.  

No matter your age it is important to develop a treatment plan that is right for you and work with a doctor who can help to evolve that plan as you age to keep you looking and feeling vibrant!